10 Years of Riding the Waves of Freedom; The Joys and Challenges of being a Curvy Black Surfer Chick

 

Surfing is an activity that's always been associated with the free-spirited and being adventurous, but for me as a black woman, it's much more than that.  As I continue my series on celebrating my 10th Anniversary of surfing  this year, I wanted to share the joys and challenges of being a curvy surfer chick feeling like I'm riding the waves of freedom in this blog.  It's not my normal format but seeing  the gradual changes in the culture inspired me to give my personal experiences and observation with being a woman in my 50's.

 In my opinion surfing is an act of radical progression, dismantling the stereotypes that have long held us back, a way to connect with the ocean and nature, we need that.  It's a celebration of our own  beauty and strength and an of way of honoring our Ancestors who didn't have access to public beaches or in pools, often being segregated to less favorable areas by storm drains up until the mid-70's in most areas.  Many decades ago, expressing joy and happiness outside of working could get you in serious trouble. 

So as I stand on my board, feeling the gentle swell of the ocean beneath me, I can't help but feel a sense of liberation for them, my Ancestors blood that run deep through my veins. For so long, black women have been told that we can't do certain things, like we couldn't swim and we didn't get our hair wet.  When it was just a matter of access to leisure, recreation and products that worked well with our hair.  

For some context I was born in the 70's, a time when Black Men and Women began dismantling the negative connotations associated with their hair of being unkempt and unprofessional in it's natural state. The  Crown Act wasn't  passed until 2020 that we couldn't be discriminated against for that reason. It's actually mind-boggling to me that it has taken this long. 

I've witnessed how we were depicted in the past as not being  built for certain activities. But having taught myself how to swim when I was a kid, to now as I'm gliding  effortlessly through the water (sometimes on a day with good Ocean conditions) I know that's not true. 

My body type with it's curves and strength, is perfectly suited for surfing.  When I was doing a photo shoot, I discovered that my body type naturally floats which actually gave me more confidence when I'm in the water.  Rarely have I seen inclusive images like myself, a healthy fit woman that has a different build which allows me more buoyancy.  My skin  is perfectly suited for the sun and the saltwater. The warmer it is, the more I come alive and feel whole.  And my spirit, which had been too often beaten down, is perfectly renewed in mother ocean,  suited for the thrill and joy of riding the  waves. 

As I've paddled out to the line-up, I feel a sense of camaraderie with the other surfers in the water.  We may come from different backgrounds and have different life experiences, but we all share a love for this sport and a respect for the ocean. We're all here to challenge ourselves, to push ourselves and to be better, to experience the beauty and power of nature. 

And as I catch a wave and ride it down the line and some surfers are watching me smiling, I feel a sense of triumph. Because not only have I  conquered systemic challenges but because I've conquered the doubts and fears of not being good enough which have too often held me back. I'm a black woman, and I'm surfing. 
And there's nothing more beautiful, radical, revolutionary or romantic than that.  If you enjoyed reading this blog, you might also enjoy https://www.creativelycultured.com/2023/06/it-takes-courage-to-embrace-your-sexy.html . Feel free to comment and share with a friend.